Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Watch out for Stray Fireworks

These months of June - August have been a very interesting time of transition for me, as I marked 1 year in country on June 10th and approach 1 year in-site on August 21st.  I have been traveling a lot for both work and play, so haven't taken on any new, big projects- have just been finishing up  those already en camino, and working on updates to our business plan manual.  And, there are other signs that the time are a-changing for me:
  • Two weeks ago, I hosted a group of 8 new business volunteers in Monsefú, where they completed their field-based training (FBT).  Hosting FBT has been something I've wanted to do since I completed it as a trainee, so it was a lot of fun having fresh, bright-eyed trainees in my site, and so excited to teach in the Institute (vocational college).  And they did a great job, the students had a great time and have been creating small food businesses all over the place since the training! Those trainees have since gotten their site assignments, so four of them will be in my region.
Renato, our Regional Coordinator, taking on the role of banker in the loan application part of the training (the most exciting and useful part for the participants, I think)
  • This past weekend, the Artisan Council that I organized put on the same kind of fashion show as I did for Mother's Day, this time for the big Independence Day celebrations here.  This made me so happy - they all worked together, although not without some arguments, and a great product turned out.  And I did essentially none of the organizing.  Yay for sustainable projects!!  And yay for unity of the artisans!!  Also, a huge thanks to the group of Peace Corps Volunteers that came to the show and stayed for the whole thing :)
Me and all the artisans who participated, on stage together 
  • I may not have mentioned this, but Monsefú also hosts a German volunteer, from a pre-university one year program.  Dominik and I arrived within a week of each other, and I remember our first introduction like it was yesterday.  Last night I attended his goodbye-party; it feels really weird to say goodbye to someone who arrived the same time I did.
Having a grand old time with his mama

  • At the party last night, I was informed that the radio in Monsefú had announced the birth of a baby named Kimberly... the parents liked my name and used it for their child!  It's spreading!
  • Next week, my future SITE-MATE is visiting!  I asked Peace Corps to place a Youth Volunteer in Monsefú, because there is plenty of work for the two of us and Monsefú needs more support in the area of youth development and health.  She's going to be living with some of my dear friends.  And guess what her name is... Kimberly.  Monsefú is going to think that all American girls are named Kimberly.  She'll be here to stay at the end of August.
  • In one of my two upcoming work trips to Lima in August, I'm considering getting a tattoo!  For the last four years, I've been thinking about getting one on my foot, and while in Peace Corps I've figured out exactly what I want.  I want to put "Love Saves Us," with a little Peace Corps dove.  The meaning for me is essentially the same as Lesson #10 of Things I Learned in Year 1.  What do you all think?
  • One thing that isn't changing that should be is the weather.  It has gotten colder at night, but we've had very few days that feel like the coastal "winter" that I arrived in... although keep in mind that winter here in the north means like 65-70 during the day, vs. 90-100 in the summer.  It has been unusually warm for all but a few weeks, which has a lot of people really worried because a warm winter is a sign of a coming El Niño.  Forecasters are predicting it too, but can't say when it will be, between now and next April.  Although it's supposed to be comparably mild, it will still be disastrous for Monsefú and other towns in northern Peru, because it will bring mosquitoes and disease, destroy crops, flood the streets that have no drainage system, and wreck the old houses and buildings that are built out of sticks and adobe mud bricks... that includes the huge public market. 
This is storage room of our house, in the middle of being patched with cement.  Half of our house (not where I sleep) is still made out of sticks and adobe.  In the last El Niño, the roof of the living room collapsed.  That night, because of the heat, my family had considered sleeping in the living room where it is cooler, and they would have been killed if they did.

I end this post with a story that will likely turn into one of my strongest memories of my Peace Corps experience.  In the Artisan Fashion Show (Fextimoda) this weekend, I was asked to help MC the event with the radio guy (yes, the same one who publicly criticized the first fashion show.  Anyway...).  So, as I was talking, some municipality workers decided to set off a firework, ridiculously close to the stage.  A piece hit me right in the neck, burning my hair, neck, and (borrowed) blouse!  It hurt for a second but I thought the worst was over.  Apparently, my hair and blouse kept burning, so the radio guy started slapping me in the back to put it out, while the crowd was screaming because apparently my hair on fire was visible to all.  I was pretty unaware of everything that was going on, so the Volunteers in the audience said my completely-calm face was incredibly weird and funny, in retrospect.

I was forced off stage in all the mayhem and it caused quite the scene backstage... the artisan whose blouse had been burned was super pissed and the municipality workers came running to do their best to save face, telling the artisan that it wasn't a big deal and could be paid for, which only made him more mad.  Others were doing their best to help me (or get in on the excitement), clipping my singed and knotted hair off to the side so it didn't get mixed in my neck wound.  My hair still smells funky, but overall I came out completely fine.

My neck- sounded a lot more dramatic than the injury actually was.  And while I lost a significant amount of hair, I don't think it's noticeable.
While I find the whole thing pretty funny, my Regional Coordinator was not happy and wants to talk to my mayor about it.  I just hope the blouse gets paid for!  I'll try to get a picture of that too.

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Mom's Guest Blog- Visiting Kim's Home


Dear friends and family,

You may think it strange for me to say “Kim’s Home.”   She misses her US home but Kim has made a home for herself in Monsefu, Peru. A second home and a definite primary home for now.  She has a mother, father, sister and sisters and brother-in-laws, cousins and extended family that she experiences as her own. They experience her the same way.  She is incredibly embedded in the community with mutual love and respect. I ended up the same way, feeling so embedded in the families and friends she has established that it was hard to leave the Peruvian welcome and the home my daughter has created.  

The Peruvians are different.  The families that she socializes with value relationship beyond anything else.  They are present in the moment with you and say it like it is.  They questioned me, as they have with Kim about how it is that “We would let our children leave home at 18”.  Their question is about our different cultural mores and values.  For them, the children are always in touch and really don’t leave home until they are married and even then the mother keeps her rule, is very involved and her children are nearby and involved. I explained that separating for us was in the best interest of the child and her/ his development of autonomy. It wasn’t an emotional separation but a supporting of the cultural mores and values that I/we/they grow up with which has to do with independence, self respect and a desire to further your growth and achievements. I deeply respect the value of family and think we could benefit by focusing on the family more.  This was hard for them to understand. We had great conversations.
Host Mom and Dad (far side), host sister, host brother, and nephew

Host Mom and the family of another host sister

I feel so grateful that I had this time with Kim and her family in Monsefu. I felt such honesty, trust, curiosity and affection.  They are good, good people. I don’t know how Kim will be able to leave. I mentioned that to her and she agreed saying she can’t and does not want to imagine it.   

 I do imagine what will happen. Kim will leave with great sadness and her heart strings will be stretched beyond belief. It will be emotionally tortuous and she will leave or I will come to get her. I humorously said this to the family with whom she lived for three months when she was in her initial training June of 2011. They humorously/seriously said that they are due for an earthquake and she will not be able to leave when it happens. This was after we experienced a possible tremor with them in their home.  They then in all seriousness told me about the earthquakes they have experienced and the loss of life and home that has occurred. They live with this constantly. When they hear a possible tremor they quickly all go together to hear how the dogs are barking outside.  They can tell whether they should run to shelter or not by the sound of the barking dogs.

Her first host family in Lima, where we experienced the tremor.

I turn now to some of the funny and not so funny predicaments. I’ve told you how relational the Peruvians can be.  You might not feel that way in a car on the Peruvian roads.  More frequently than not there are no stop signs and surely no stop lights.  Drivers beep as they go through an intersection.  Your life is in their hands.  Quickly I ascertained that most drivers are very competent and know how to navigate their way in Peruvian city traffic without getting hit. With one driver however, both Kim and I came to feel like our lives might be in danger. Kim said “Please!” to the driver who aggressively, irritatedly swerved in and out of traffic traveling at an extreme speed.  I felt like we were in a video car racing game where he was bent on winning. Thankfully we all won and lived. Unfortunately we passed an accident where another driver was not so lucky, and an ambulance was on the scene.  He may have slowed down a little then.

Another cultural aspect that I earlier described as an asset can also be experienced as a discomfort. Most families are focused on relationship but so much so that you can feel trapped and unable to withdraw in a way that is respectful. Having figured this out with Kim’s help I was able to try to remove myself from dinner at a very poor family’s house at around 10:00 pm saying, “Kim please translate to this family, your mother is very, very tired and you have to put her to bed”.  It took us at least another ½ hour to leave.  Time is not experienced in Peru as it is here and it is insulting to use time as a reason for leaving the relationship.

The family we were with until 10:30pm, and the German volunteer they host

 I have described this trip to my friends as the most interesting and diverse I have ever had. You will understand why. We next traveled to Pacasmayo on the coast/beach.  We stayed at a hostel for $7/night which was just what we needed…clean, two beds, great bath. Kim was participating in a 10K race the next day on hilly, beautiful terrain and quaint villages. A Peace Corps volunteer originally developed this marathon which monetarily and otherwise profits the people and in the town.  All of a sudden I was speaking with Americans, a lot of Peace Corps volunteers who had chosen to pay and participate in this event. It was so strange at first. Do I kiss everyone on one side of the cheek to say hello and goodbye?  I came to understand that I needed to do that in our last town.  But these were Americans. The Peace Corps volunteers seemed to wait for my cue.  They are so socially conscious.  Kim said, “Must be strange for you to speak English now…absolutely yes.”  It was a wonderful time meeting some of her comrades and relaxing.  The Peace Corps is a tight supportive community and I felt privileged to experience it.
Kim at the start of the race, with other Volunteers and Peruvians

REAL ceviche!

We then, through a couple of flights, buses and crashing in another hostel in Lima made it to the city of Arequipa, one of the oldest towns in Peru. We took altitude medicine to help and it did. We hiked in the morning to see condors flying in a canyon twice as deep as the Grand Canyon here in the States. We bathed in tempered pools over-looking majestic scenery and felt very pampered for one night in the luxurious spa/hotel where we were staying. Back the next day to Arequipa city to indulge in fine food and lodging. How we got there was on a local bus that broke down twice and smelled of dirty diapers for a while.  We then traveled to Lima again and spent time there before I left.  These cities are of course a very different experience than how I spent my first few days.  I was so enriched by being with my daughter who navigates her way through Peru like a local. I never could have had this experience without her. I am so appreciative of this opportunity. I must add that anyone with which she had to negotiate money usually tried to rip her off.  She constantly had to be on the alert as an American who supposedly is rich and can pay more so they increase their rate.  That was really saddening to me.  She is there to help and loves her Peru yet get’s experienced as an ugly American.  She handles it well but it is a big stress.
The majestic condor birds and Colca Canyon

The thermal baths
Delicious and healthy alpaca meat, in a fantastic restaurant in Arequipa

I love you Kim.  I’ve only gotten a clue of what you have done in such a short amount of time and I couldn’t be prouder of your choices and how you are implementing them.  It is clear the impact you have already made and how people work with you because you have such  respect and care for them.  My father always said, “The more intelligence and education you have the more you should be able to understand and communicate with anyone.”  My father would be so, so proud.


More love and respect than you can imagine,
Kisses to all of you on the right side of the cheek,

Marianne