Order in the Disorder

I'm HOME!  That is, I am back in Monsefú.  After visiting my other home, Washington DC!  It was obviously a much anticipated visit and I can't even begin to explain how wonderful it was to see my family and friends in the flesh.  I was particularly touched by family and friends that traveled from New York, Richmond, Charlottesville, and San Francisco against all odds to make this the most amazing homecoming ever.  I was completely overwhelmed with thankfulness for the love and support that I have around me, whether we are in the same city or thousands of miles away.  This weekend was proof that no matter the distance or time, we can always pick up where we left off.  And that was a great feeling to have as I returned "home" to Peru.

Some amazing Charlottesville, New York, and San Francisco people. And John looking awkward in the back.

Nothing can keep us apart for long.

My brother who I love dearly and I can't wait to have come visit me!

So, I of course got the question "is it weird to be back??"  Yes, it was.  For the first two days, it felt like a dream- I know this place and am completely happy and comfortable in it, but this isn't my life.  I also had a couple other more specific observations:

• People in the United States obey so many rules.  People wait quietly in line and listen to directions. What?
• My friends and family have really nice watches.
• The highways around DC and Virginia are so smooth and nice and huge.  The cars seem to be floating... they drive along at a constant speed, they signal and change lanes at a constant speed, and they take smooth exits at a constant speed.
• Customer service is so weird.  I mean, I am really enjoying this conversation, but why are you being so nice to me?   I'm just here to buy something...
• Technology is amazing.  Smartboards in classrooms.  Everyone on an iPhone.  Bar codes and credit cards and electronic check out.

During my visit home, I got to visit two classes that I have been working with from a distance, one Spanish class at my high school with my old Spanish teacher, and one 6th grade class taught by my UVa friend Elizabeth.  Here I am with Elizabeth and some of the kids from her class!

Check out their Peace Corps board in the back, you are so awesome ET!

I also got to present my mom with a gift from my host mom... she did this embroidery by hand!  She may not know American/my mom's style very well, but you can't deny how sweet it is!  Oh, and don't you worry, if you want more, she says this is only the first part of the set... the tank cover and toilet paper holder and still on the way.  Lucky Mom!

So, it was amazing be home with my friends and family, craft beers, and brunch food, and thankfully I left feeling very reassured by the love and support around me, and ready to return to Peru.  And it was strange how I felt like I was returning "home."  I talked to a Peruvian friend in Lima about this, especially about the difference between the order and disorder between the US and Peru.  During my time in the States I was so struck by how orderly everything and everyone was.  The disorder in Peru is often a stressor for me, but at times it also feels liberating- when I'm flying down a highway in a van from the 1980s, with 14 other people, 3 babies, a sack of guinea pigs, and a few buckets of fish crammed in there with me, blaring cumbia music, the chaos of Peru sometimes feels just right.  As my Peruvian friend in Lima said, there is order in the disorder.

So, in honor of this lovely, disorderly country that I have come to claim as my own, here is a list I have been working on, things that I love about my life in Peru (in no particular order):

• Eating cake for breakfast is completely appropriate.
• We say “thank you” to each other and to God after each shared meal, and say excuse me before leaving a room.
• Long lunch hours that leave time for a nice nap.
• A mango always makes things better.
• During the “hora loca,” the midnight hour of every birthday or other party, everyone grabs hats, masks, whistles, confetti, and fake snow from a can, and dances around in a circle to electronic music.
• Family parties are the best parties, especially when an abuela (Grandma) is hazing me to drink more beer and an abuelo wants to dance cumbia with me.
• Everyone from 9 months old to 90 years old dances at family parties, and none the men are ashamed to show how much they love dancing.
• My morning runs take me through the dirt paths to the caseríos (rural communities), with cows and chacras (crop fields) in the landscape.
• People tell me that I am super flaquita (skinny).   They also occasionally call me caderona (big-hipped), but whatever, at least I hold my weight there instead of my stomach?
• I have beach time, mountain camping, rainforest adventures, and ancient ruin explorations all within a bus-ride distance.  I really think Peru is a contender for coolest country in the world.
• I often see the town women chatting in the plaza holding a live turkey, chicken, or duck upside down, held by the feet.
• Fried plátanos (plantains), fried eggs, and picarrones (fried dough).
• I have time, in theory, to read- even though I usually end up choosing to Facebook, gChat, or watch a TV show.
• I have an endless source of TV shows, movies, and music through the external drive system that is quite popular among Volunteers.
• Whenever I’m having a terrible day or am feeling pessimistic, someone is always there as an example of all the amazingly good people I have around me- my host family, friends in site, other Volunteers, and friends and family in the States.
• I love the way people say “Kimberly” in Spanish (KEEM-bearrr-lee), and how often I get to hear it screamed across the street or park, as someone gives me a cheerful wave.  (I go by “Kimberly” here because people know the name because of “Kimberly Clark” and a brand of paper, whereas “Kim” sounds a lot like “Quien,” which means “who,” which can get very confusing.)   
• Everyone leaves their doors open to the street, so it feels like one big family when conocidos (people I know) walk by the house or I walk by their house.
• Fresh passion fruit or papaya juice with breakfast and lunch.
• I love my friends in site, which are mostly women between 16 and 50 years old.  And I am constantly amazed by the support they give me personally and in my projects.  And I love the moments when I can feel the cultural-language barrier between us break completely.
• My fellow Volunteers are so, so inspirational.  Peace Corps Volunteers are a group of people with incredible energy, integrity, intelligence, sincerity, and heart.
• Peruvians love always being around other people, talking (even if it's about nothing), and just enjoying each other's company. 
• I am constantly challenged.  I push myself to express myself more intelligently in Spanish, to make a better "sell" for why someone should participate in my project, to get better at the culturally necessary "schmoozing" and relationship-building before asking for anything work-related, and to wake up and do it all over again.
• Lastly, I love these faces.

My host nephews, who visit from Chiclayo every Sunday, for family lunch and mangoes on the stoop.

My life is not always romantic and fun, there are absolutely times where a dark cloud is cast over this entire country and everyone who lives here... but, as another Peace Corps Volunteer put it, "when you are feeling down, just remember to go outside and let [Peru] save you."

Thank you to my family and friends, who also, in a very important way, "saved" me this past week.  You all give me the strength and support to believe I can do this for two years.  I love and thank you!